Gai Jatra or Saa Paru, which literally translates to “Festival of Cows”, is an annual festival or a procession that usually falls in the Nepali month of Bhadra (August/September). Limited to Kathmandu Valley, the festival is celebrated to remember and commemorate the deceased. On this day, families send one of their members, mostly children, to join the parade as an elaborately dressed cow. The parade also sees people dressed as deities and satirical drags. The colorful procession is held in different cities throughout the valley and is paired with satirical performances, dancing and singing. The relationship between the vibrant celebration and the solemn remembrance for the departed is profound, and goes back to the Malla dynasty. Read on to learn more.
Why is Gai Jatra Celebrated?
Gai Jatra is celebrated to commemorate the deceased, with families participating in the festival to honor those who have passed away within the past year. The festival’s name, “Gai Jatra,” literally means “Cow Festival,” and it is believed that cows, regarded as sacred animals in Hinduism, help guide the souls of the deceased to the afterlife. This belief stems from the notion that a cow, considered a holy and nurturing figure, can ease the journey of the departed soul, offering them peace and comfort.
The festival also serves as a time for families to come together, share their grief, and find solace in communal support. The public nature of the celebration allows for a collective expression of mourning, helping to alleviate the pain of loss. It is a time of both remembrance and renewal, where laughter and joy are used to heal wounds and bring the community together.
A Malla Queen’s loss: The story behind Gai Jatra
Gai Jatra’s most renowned origin story dates back to 17th century Kathmandu, during the reign of King Prakash Malla. The tale begins with profound royal sorrow – the king and queen mourning their son’s untimely death. The queen, inconsolable, had ceased eating, slowly withering away in her grief.
In a poignant attempt to console his beloved and demonstrate the universality of loss, King Prakash Malla decreed that every household in the city that had lost a family member in the past year should join a procession before the palace. As the queen witnessed the multitude of grieving families, she realized that death, in its inevitability, touches all. This epiphany helped her find solace and acceptance in her shared human experience of loss.
From that day forward, this procession became an annual tradition, evolving into the Gai Jatra we know today. While it’s unclear if the iconic elements of cows, or young boys dressed as cows and mythical creatures, were part of the original procession, these have been integral to the festival for generations.
The cow’s presence in the parade holds deep symbolic significance. In Hindu tradition, the cow is believed to guide the souls of the departed across the Baitarni River, the boundary between the mortal world and the afterlife. This symbolism adds a layer of spiritual comfort to the festival, suggesting that the deceased are being guided towards heavenly realms.
Celebration of Gai Jatra in Different Parts of Kathmandu
The celebration of Gai Jatra varies across different regions of the Kathmandu Valley, each with its unique customs and traditions.
1. Gai Jatra in Kathmandu
The center of Gai Jatra, the city of Kathmandu celebrates the festival with much pomp and enthusiasm. The vibrant festival is marked by processions where families who have lost a loved one parade with decorated cows or children dressed as cows and other religious deities. The streets are filled with music, dance, and the sound of traditional instruments. The procession goes around the city to different parts of the suburbs and the inner urban areas. The participants in the procession receive edibles such as fruits, sweets, nuts, juice and other food items to help them on their tour around the city by spectators and by their loved ones.
2. Gai Jatra in Patan
In Patan, Gai Jatra doesn’t have the same gusto. The procession is shorter and ends quickly. Instead, the people of Patan celebrate Mattya. The festival holds the same sentiment and essence of Gai Jatra, but is celebrated on a different date. Thousands of people participate in the near-12-hour procession that starts as early as 4 o’clock in the morning and lasts till 5 to 6 in the evening. The procession starts from a different location every year and goes around the city, traversing a set of destinations, usually shrines, temples, bahals and religious courtyards. Participants in traditional Newari attires as well as modern outfits pay homage to these shrines for the peace of the departed soul. Drags called khyals break the monotony of the procession with funny skits, dancing and singing, adding the comic relief to the procession.
3. Gai Jatra in Bhaktapur
Gai Jatra in Bhaktapur is a week-long affair, setting it apart from observances in Patan and Kathmandu. The festival’s centerpiece is the Taha-Macha, a bamboo chariot wrapped in cloth and adorned with a photograph of a deceased person. These chariots, symbolizing the departed, are paraded through predefined streets by families and local communities, creating a long, solemn procession. The Taha-Machas are decorated with the possessions of the deceased and wrapped in traditional cloth—Hakupatasi (a black sari with red border)for women and simple sari cloth for men. A distinctive feature of Bhaktapur’s celebration is the Bhailya Dya: (Bhairab), a large straw-covered chariot from Lakolachhen that leads the procession, followed by the Ajima (Bhadrakali) from Khala.
The festival is further enlivened by local musicians and the Ghintang Ghisi dance, which continues for nearly a week until Krishna Janmashtami. This dance involves pairs of performers rhythmically striking each other’s sticks in a long queue. The streets come alive with colorful costumes, face paintings, and masks, with men often donning women’s Hakupatasi and children dressing as deities. The celebration extends beyond Bhaktapur, with nearby villages participating in various cultural shows, making Gai Jatra a grand spectacle that uniquely blends remembrance, tradition, and joyous festivity.
4. Gai Jatra in Kirtipur
In Kirtipur’s ancient towns of Kipu, Naga, and Panga, Gaijatra takes on a distinctive character. The festival holds deep significance for locals, who believe it opens heaven’s gates for the departed. Unlike elsewhere, Kirtipur’s procession features people and children dressed as various deities and sages, marching to guide their deceased loved ones to the afterlife. On the same occasion, special dances such as “Tir-Ku-Lar-Ku” and “Dhe-Dhe-Pa-Pa” are performed in Kirtipur.
This celebration coincides with farmers returning from fields, marking the end of arduous agricultural work. The festival becomes a time of feasting and community bonding. Men dressed as women go door-to-door, inviting neighbors to join in the festivities, fostering harmony among residents.
Kirtipur’s Gaijatra is known for its diverse dances and imitative performances, bringing joy and wonder to spectators. The city’s rich tapestry of beliefs and stories surrounding Gaijatra sets it apart, making the celebration here more varied and culturally significant than in other parts of the Kathmandu Valley.
Gai Jatra over the years
With time, the parade has become more vibrant and colorful with satirical performances usually taking jabs at society’s ill cultures and the country’s political scene. In the 80’s, the occasion of Gai Jatra was also marked with parody shows in major cities across the country. Despite and because of strict censorship during monarchy, these shows would put up hilarious, cheek-and-tongue, slapstick comedy with generous dollops of satire. It added a comic relief to the lives of everyday people as well as the royal family of Nepal, who would enjoy private shows.
Since 2002, Gai Jatra has also been utilized as a Pride Parade by the LGBTQIA+ community of Nepal where members of the community dress up and openly express their true selves.
Other Elements of Gai Jatra
Beyond the traditional processions and rituals, Gai Jatra also features a variety of other celebratory elements:
1. Dressing Up in Comic Style and Costumes
One of the most entertaining aspects of Gai Jatra is the tradition of dressing up in comic styles and costumes. Participants often wear exaggerated outfits, masks, and face paint, adding a touch of humor to the festival. This tradition serves as a reminder to take life lightly and find joy even in the face of adversity.
2. Satirical performances
Gai Jatra is also a time for social satire, where performers take the opportunity to mock politicians, famous personalities and society’s ill cultures. This light-hearted criticism serves as a social commentary, allowing people to voice their opinions and grievances in a humorous way. It is a unique form of expression that adds a layer of cultural critique to the festivities.
3. Traditional music and dance
The festival’s musical element is a big part of the celebration. It is a great time for traditional musical bands from every neighborhood in the city to flaunt their skills on dhime (traditional drum), cymbals and flutes, and bring life to what would otherwise be just a parade. The various dances, from Ghintang Ghisi in Bhaktapur and Dhe-Dhe-Pa-Pa in Kirtipur, are testament to the rich culture of the valley.
Conclusion
Gai Jatra, with its blend of solemnity and satire, offers a unique glimpse into Nepal’s rich cultural tapestry. From colorful processions to humorous performances, the festival showcases the Nepalese ability to find joy amidst sorrow and unity in diversity. As the streets come alive with laughter and remembrance, Gai Jatra reminds us of life’s cyclical nature and the power of community.
Experience this cultural marvel firsthand by staying at Varnabas Museum Hotel. The processions are held not far away from the hotel, offering easy access to at least two major Gai Jatra performances—in Kathmandu and in Patan. After witnessing the festivities, you return to rest at the hotel where the rich architectural and cultural heritage of the city continues. Book your next Kathmandu stay with us and experience ancient customs with modern comfort. Let Varnabas be your gateway to Nepal’s living heritage.
