The Rato Machhindranath Jatra
In the heart of the Himalayas, where the air is filled with the aroma of incense and the rhythm of traditional chants, Nepal’s festivals and jatras give a glimpse into a world where tradition intertwines with spirituality. A particular festival that occupies an exceptional spot in the hearts of the Nepalese people is the Rato Machhindranath Jatra, a centuries-old celebration that pays homage to the god Rato Machhindranath.
The Rato Machhindranath jatra is the longest running chariot festival in Nepal which is held every year just before the monsoon hits the Kathmandu valley. Celebrated by the Newar community of Patan or Lalitpur, the jatra of Rato Machhindranath is believed to bring rain and prosperity. The month-long celebration of this jatra concludes with Bhoto jatra, in which an antique vest decorated with jewels is shown to the public with hope that the rightful owner would come forward to claim it with proof that it belongs to him.
History and myth about Rato Machhindranath jatra
Rato Machindranath is known as the god of rain and crops, and the festival is celebrated annually to please him. This celebration, like others throughout the country’s history, foretells of sad events that took place in the central valley.
According to some myths, it is said that Rato Machhindranath jatra is celebrated to remember that Kathmandu valley was once rescued from a severe drought.The story goes back to the medieval period when a sage Guru Gorakhnath once visited Kathmandu and was not respected by anyone. Since, it was common for a sage to be offered alms by locals and rely on them, he went around locals of Kathmandu asking for the offerings.
During the time, the locals of Patan didn’t care much about him and refused to give him offerings as well. The disrespect and insult by the locals angered Guru Gorakhnath which led him to vow for revenge. In order to take the revenge, Guru Gorakhnath went to a site where nine rain bringing serpents reside. Guru Gorakhnath then began his intense meditation by sitting on the head of the serpent. After this, Kathmandu valley received no rain for many years that resulted in drought.
A renowned Tantrik stated that Yogi Gorakhnath’s meditative condition was the cause of this drought. He also stated that after the serpents were released, it would rain in the valley again. The helpless people in the valley went to Guru Gorakhnath and asked for forgiveness, but the angry sage ignored them all.
Eventually, some locals came up with a desperate plan to wake Gorakhnath from his meditation . They headed all the way to Assam in northeast India, where the angered Gorakhnath’s teacher, Machindranath, resided. Once there, they respectfully requested Machindranath to visit the Kathmandu Valley, stating that the people of the valley were anxious to give him a royal welcome. Machindranath was satisfied with their request and accompanied them to Kathmandu.
Upon reaching the Kathmandu valley the locals took him to the place where Gorakhnath was meditating. Sensing his teacher had visited him, Gorakhnath had no other choice but to break his meditation and stand in front of his teacher. Thus Gorakhnath’s angry meditation was broken, and the rain-bringing snakes were free to bring rain to the valley once more.
Later, the King chose to keep Rato Macchindranath in Lalitpur. Since that day, people have celebrated the chariot festival every year to show their gratitude and respect.
About the chariot and procession of Rato Machhindranath Jatra
The jatra of Rato Machhindranath begins with the preparation of a chariot where the idol of Lord Machhindranath is placed. The local newar community comes together to build the 60 ft. tall chariot at Pulchowk of Lalitpur for 15 days. The chariot has four large wheels, each carved and painted, and two long ropes used to pull it throughout the city. The chariot is decorated with flowers and religious symbols,accompanied by musicians performing traditional Newari music.
The chariot preparation is completed after the idol of Lord Machhindranath also known as Bunga Dyah is placed there. The chariot of Bunga Dyah is also accompanied by a similar but smaller chariot of Chākuwā Dyah.
The chariot procession begins from the Pulchowk of Lalitpur. The chariot is pulled through different places of the city which includes Natole, Gabahal, Mangal Bazaar, Sundhara, Lagenkhel, Kumaripati, and Jawalakhel.
During the Barha Barsa Jatra, which occurs every 12 years, the chariot of Machhindranath is built in Bungamati and dragged through many places till it reaches Pulchok. The traditional chariot procession between Iti and Thati, known as Yākah Misāyā Bhujyā, is solely pulled by women.
Bhoto Jatra: last Day of Rato Machhindranath Jatra
The month-long Rato Machhinranath jatra comes to an end on Bhoto Jatra which is the last day of the jatra. After the chariot reaches Jawalakhel, thousands of devotees arrive to witness the chariot and worship the god. On the day of Bhoto Jatra, an ancient black vest (bhoto) is shown to the public from the chariot in the presence of living goddess Kumari and the nation’s president and prime minister.
There is also a folklore behind Bhoto jatra. The story says that once the wife of Karkotak Nagraj (the king of all serpents) had an eye ailment which could not be cured even with lots of medicines. One day, a farmer (Jyapu) arrived and said he could cure her eye condition. He then wiped his ear, gathered dirt, and placed it in Nagraj’s wife’s eyes. She was quickly healed, and he kindly gave the farmer a Bhoto decorated with diamonds and other gems.
He removed it one day when he was working in his field since it was becoming too hot. Later, it was nowhere to be found; after a few days, he spotted someone wearing it at the chariot festival. The two parties disagreed and argued about who owned the Bhoto. But they couldn’t come to a decision, so they agreed to give it to Machindranath and then take it back once they had enough proof to claim it properly.
What happens if the chariot procession or the jatra is not successful?
There have been lots of scenarios where the chariot procession has not been successful. The unsuccessful procession of the chariot has always foreshadowed some dreadful incidents.
In the year 1680, people noticed that the idol of lord Machhindranath had lost some paint on its face. This resulted in the death of King Nipendra Malla the very next morning.
A similar incident occurred in the year 1817 when the painting of the idol was not done properly. That year, Nepal was hit by a devastating earthquake.
Another incident in the year 2000 AD, when the chariot fell down in the crowd Nepal faced another big incident. The year after the chariot crash the entire royal family of Nepal was massacred.
Celebrate Rato Machhindranath Jatra with Varnabas Museum Hotel
The Rato Machhindranath Jatra is a captivating occasion that provides an insight into Nepal’s rich cultural heritage and traditions. With its bright chariot processions, historical mythology, and spiritual importance, this month-long event is a must-see for everyone visiting Kathmandu at this time of year.
To fully immerse yourself in the festivities and soak in the traditional atmosphere, book your stay at Varnabas Museum Hotel. This heritage property, nestled in the heart of Kathmandu, not only provides a comfortable and culturally immersive accommodation, but also offers exceptional hospitality and an opportunity to witness the jatra’s celebrations up close.
