Indra Jatra Celebration in Kathmandu 

Yenya Punhi, popularly known as Indra Jatra, is a vibrant eight-day festival that transforms the Kathmandu Valley, especially the city of Kathmandu, into a colorful tapestry of culture, spirituality and mythology. Celebrated in the Nepali month of Bhadra (August/September), this Newa festival is centered around Lord Indra, the Rain God. For eight days the festival captivates with its grand chariot processions, mesmerizing masked dances, soul-stirring traditional music, and profound religious rituals.

As the monsoon retreats and autumn approaches, Indra Jatra marks this seasonal transition with unparalleled grandeur. The festival commences with the symbolic raising of a Ya Sin:, a wooden pole, in Basantapur Durbar Square and concludes with its ritualistic lowering. Throughout the celebration, devotees pay homage to Lord Indra and his mother Dagini, seeking blessings for bountiful harvests and honoring departed souls. 

The Legend of Indra Jatra

While there are many stories and myths associated with Indra Jatra, the most popular legend revolves around Lord Indra, the Rain God as well as king of heaven in Hindu mythology. According to this tale, Indra descended to Earth in search of parijat flowers, a celestial bloom needed for a ritual his mother, Dagini, was performing. Disguising himself as a commoner to avoid detection, Indra found his way to Kilagal, a small village in present day Maru Tole, where he found the flower in a garden and began collecting it. However, he was caught in the act by the gardener, who, unaware of his divine identity, accused him of theft and held him captive, tied to a pole.

It is believed that Indra’s bahan or celestial vehicle, a white elephant named Airavata came looking for him but couldn’t find his master. Worried by her son’s prolonged absence, Indra’s mother, Dagini, came to Earth in search of him. Upon discovering his predicament, she revealed his identity to the people of Kathmandu. In return for his release, Dagini promised to release enough dew to sustain the region’s crops throughout the year. Along with this boon, the valley residents demanded the departed souls of Newa community be given a place in heaven. The departed souls followed Indra and his mother to Indra Daha (pond), currently in Thankot, and plunged into the water with them, reaching heaven. 

The eight-day Indra Jatra festival reenacts this tale, from Indra’s capture to the Pulu Kisi and Daagi processions. Some devotees still bathe in Indra Daha on the festival’s first day to commemorate this event.

What happens during Indra Jatra?

Structurally, the eight-day long festivity is a combination of three different jatras: Indra Jatra, Kumari Jatra and Bhairava Jatra, each concentrating on a specific deity. Historically, there is evidence of these jatras being celebrated separately, but somewhere along the timeline were scheduled during Indra Jatra adding to the theatrics and fervor of the festival. Every day of the eight-day long Indra Jatra holds significance for each deity.

Events and rituals are spread over the week, symbolic of the mythical capturing of Lord Indra. The Living Goddess Kumari’s chariot procession winds through Kathmandu’s streets. Masked Lakhey dance is performed nightly, accompanied by traditional music. Kathmandu Durbar Square glows with oil lamps each evening. At Indra Chowk, a large Akash Bhairab head image is displayed facing its temple. There is so much to take in.

Ya Sin: Thanegu or Raising of the Pole

The festival begins with the erection of a 60 ft (10 meter) long pole known as the Ya sin: at the square outside of Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu Durbar Square. This event, known as “Yosin Thanegu,” typically takes place on the day of Bhadra Dwadashi according to the lunar calendar.

The Ya Sin: is a pine tree carefully selected a year in advance from the forest of Nala, a town east of Kathmandu. The transportation of this pole to Kathmandu is itself a significant event, accompanied by various rituals. Once in Kathmandu, the pole is decorated with a special banner called hari patah that bears the asta mangala, eight signs of good luck. Along with it goes the national flag, branches and bhogate, a kind of pomelo, before being raised.

The raising of the Yosin is believed to symbolize Lord Indra’s flagstaff, marking the beginning of the festival. It’s also seen as a cosmic axis connecting heaven and earth, representing the presence of Indra in the city during the festival period. The event is accompanied by the beats of traditional drums, dances and the chanting of mantras, recreating the scenes of Lord Indra being captured.

The entire durbar square turns into a sea of people who arrive to witness the event.

Upaku Wanegu: Honoring the Deceased Ones

On the evening of the first day, a procession known as Upaku Wanegu”takes place. This event, similar to the Mattya, held the day after Gai Jatra in Patan, is dedicated to honoring deceased family members. Participants carry traditional oil lamps and walk through the inner streets of Kathmandu, following a specific route that includes many of the city’s important religious sites.

The Upaku Wanegu procession is a solemn yet beautiful sight, with participants walking the streets with burning incense in their hands. The procession route covers much of the path later taken by the Kumari chariot but also includes additional areas such as Sundhara, Dharahara, Bhagwan Bahal, Jyatha, and Chhetrapati. 

A distinctive feature of this procession is the participation of the Majipa Lakhey Aaju and Pulu Kisi. The Majipa Lakhey Aaju is a masked dancer representing a demon from Newari folklore, while the Pulu Kisi represents Airavata, Lord Indra’s white elephant. These performances add a dynamic and visually striking element to the procession and continue throughout the festival period.

Indra Jatra: The D-Day

After a one-day gap following the Ya Sin: Thanegu and Upaku Wanegu events, the main Indra Jatra celebration begins. This day, known as “Kwaneyā” coincides with Kumari Jatra which lasts for three days. The remainder of the festival is marked by several significant events:

Chariot Processions: A key feature of Indra Jatra is the three-day chariot procession of Kumari, Ganesh, and Bhairab. Kumari, a young girl revered as the living embodiment of goddess Taleju, emerges from her residence in Kathmandu Durbar Square to ride in an ornate chariot. Two other chariots carry boys representing Ganesh and Bhairab.

The chariots pulled by devotees are accompanied by traditional music, with musicians playing drums, cymbals, and other instruments. The entire procession follows different routes each day:

• “Kwaneya”: This is the first day when the chariots are pulled through the southern part of town.
• “Thaneya”: Also known as “Yenya Punhi”, literally translating to “festival of Kathmandu that falls on full moon day”, this day features the procession called “Thaneya” that takes the chariots to the north to Ason. It is also the day when heaps of samay baji are put on display at major temples and courtyards as an offering for the three deities. The samay baji is later distributed among visitors as the deities’ blessings. 
• “Nanichaya”: This is the final day of the chariot procession, limited to the central section at Kilagal and ending in Basantapur Durbar Square. Since 2012, the chariot of Kumari has been pulled by an all-women’s team.

This spectacle is a chance for devotees with limited mobility to catch a glimpse of the deities and receive their blessings in their own home. The procession winds through inner routes of the city where thousands of devotees line the streets through all three days.

Mask Dances: Throughout the day and into the night, various masked dances are performed in Durbar Square and other locations around the city during the eight days of Indra Jatra. These dances, known as “Devi Pyakhan” depict various deities and demons from Hindu and Buddhist traditions. Some of the most famous dances include the Majipa Lakhey Aaju also known as Shanta Bhairab (a calm Bhairab), Pulu Kisi and the dance of Sawa Bhakku Bhairav, the blue incarnation of Bhairava.

Pulukisi: Pulukisi dance is one of the fascinating masked dance of indra jatra. Pulukisi is believed to be carrier of Lord Indra and thus this dance is celebrated.. The white elephant structure is prepared by the people and then carried through the streets of Kathmandu by the young boys. The Pulukisi dance begins from Kilagal of Kathmandu. The procession of Pulu Kisi begins from the first day of Indra jatra and follows the route same as the one followed by Kumari Chariot.

Daagin: The Daagin procession is about Goddess Dagini, mother of Lord Indra. It follows the route she took when she came to Kathmandu searching for her son. The procession starts late in the evening around 8 pm on the day of Kwaneyā after the end of the chariot procession.

Bau Mata: Following the Daagin procession, the Bau Mata ceremony offers a striking visual display. This procession features a long, serpentine effigy crafted from reeds, adorned with a series of oil lamps. Suspended from poles and carried on shoulders, this illuminated “holy snake” winds its way through the festival route. The procession starts in Maru, adding a mesmerizing element to the Indra Jatra celebrations with its flickering lights.

Dashavatar Showcase: One of the most visually striking events during Indra Jatra is the Dashavatar showcase, which depicts the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. This is typically performed through a series of masked dances, with each dancer representing one of Vishnu’s avatars. The performance is not only a religious display but also a masterpiece of traditional Newari artistry and storytelling. The performance happens in the dabali or stone steps in front of Kumari Ghar every night of Indra Jatra.

Exhibition of Bhairav: During Indra Jatra, Kathmandu showcases the fierce aspect of Lord Shiva known as Bhairav through prominent mask displays. Two colossal masks stand out: Sweta Bhairava at Durbar Square, featuring a pipe dispensing alcoholic beverages that devotees throng to drink as a blessing, and Akaash Bhairava at Indra Chowk. These imposing effigies, unveiled during the three-day chariot procession, draw crowds of devotees and onlookers. The masks’ intense expressions and intricate details embody the complex theology of Nepalese Hinduism, symbolizing the balance between creation and destruction.

Experiencing Indra Jatra as a Visitor

For visitors to Kathmandu, Indra Jatra offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness and experience the living cultural heritage of the Kathmandu Valley. However, navigating the festival in Kathmandu as an outsider can be challenging. Here are some tips for visitors:

• Best viewing locations: The area around Kathmandu Durbar Square is the epicenter of the festival activities. This is the best place to witness the raising of the Ya Sin:, the chariot processions, and many of the mask dances. Other good vantage points include the streets along the chariot route, particularly in the old city areas. We recommend heading to a rooftop restaurant bordering the square as observing the festivities from the sidelines can be overwhelming.
  
• Timing: Many of the main events occur in the late afternoon and evening. It’s advisable to arrive early to secure a good viewing spot, as crowds can be intense.
  
• Photography: This is a great opportunity for photographers to take stunning masterpieces. Bring suitable lenses and keep them safe. When taking photographs of individuals, you however might want to take permission from them.
  
• Participation: While visitors are welcome to observe most events, active participation in rituals is generally reserved for community members. If and when invited to participate, follow the lead of locals and ask if unsure. It is a festival that holds a lot of religious and sentimental value for the locals, so be respectful.
  
• Safety: The festival can get crowded, so be aware of your surroundings and keep valuables secure. Stay hydrated and be prepared for long periods of standing or walking and lots of pushing if you are a part of the crowd.
  
• Local Guides: Consider hiring a local guide who can provide in-depth explanations of the various events and their significance. This can greatly enhance your understanding and appreciation of the festival.

Indra Jatra Celebration at Varnabas Museum Hotel

As Indra Jatra concludes, the vibrant spirit of Kathmandu lingers in the air. Varnabas  Museum Hotel offers the perfect sanctuary to immerse yourself in this cultural spectacle. Situated near the festival’s heart, the hotel provides easy access to Durbar Square and other key locations. Our staff can guide you through the intricacies of various jatras, ensuring you don’t miss a moment.

Jatras are incomplete without traditional Newa: Bhwe (Newari Feast) that includes beaten rice (Chiura) paired with lots of other side dishes combination of seasonal vegetables, lentils and meat. You can enjoy this Indra Jatra Newa: Bhwe at Varnabas Museum Hotel. We would like to invite you to our hotel to join the Indra jatra celebration and enjoy the authentic Newa: Bhwe and delicacies.

Book your stay at Varnabas to truly experience Kathmandu’s rich traditions outside the hotel as well as within. You’ll create lasting memories while enjoying comfortable accommodation that connects you seamlessly with the city’s festive pulse.